If you have an A++ plasterer, and since I trowell veneer plaster myself I can tell who is the good from the bad, then you can go with a quality 100% acrylic primer 2 weeks after application. An oil primer will hold back staining from mineral salts, will not re-introduce moisture into the plaster, just plain sticks better, and will based on many tests I have done in the past to measure adhesion, will recombine a loose crumbly 'soft' plaster job which is what I have seen very often. The fact is if you wait for plaster to bleach out bright white - then it's safe to use an oil primer. While it's true that plaster is too hot for oil based primers. I've seen many latex/acrylic primers eventually just de-laminate from plastered walls. The reasons why you don't want to use a latex primer with plasters range from mineral salts that can bleed right through it, just not that great of adhesion, especially if the plaster job is 'soft'. I plaster and lathe applications would definitely need longer due to the thick layers involved.ĭean I am talking new style thin veneer plasters, in my area we use Uni-kal which is a 'limed' veneer plaster. The plaster is Snowdrift autoclaved finish lime. How come ONLY plaster is the one masonry type surface that conventional wisdom says to use oil? Every other high pH surface says do not use oil/alkyd primers (apart from a few odd ball high pH tolerant alkyds, but those are not the typical oil primers).ĭan, for the plaster you are talking about, is it thin coat or old school style? This is newly finished thin coat/skim coat plaster. If you think about every other masonry surface we paint, specs say NOT to use oil due to pH. Pin holes need to be filled by the plaster guy. Blushing and mottling can be fixed by a vinegar wash to lower the pH (I would think better to measure the pH first and wash then or wait longer). With acrylics, if it is too hot or wet still, you will see blushing right away, mottling, or pin holes. This makes sense with all the older bubbling plaster ceilings we see that the brittleness of the paint shows it all is oil and failing. Plaster guys like oil because it looks good right away, but failure comes a few years down the road as the reaction occurs over time. Oil required the longest wait to apply primer. X-KALibur is a single component veneer plaster for application over Gold Bond tapered edge 1/2" Regular or 5/8" Fire-Shield Kal-Kore, 5/8" Hi-Abuse Kal-Kore or as a finish coat over Kal-Kote Basecoat.From what I have read today and talking to BM yesterday, oil is not good since it will have a saponification reaction if the plaster is too hot still. Strength of X-KALibur provides a surface resistant to abrasion, cracking and nail-pops. X-KALibur applied not exceeding 1/16" may be used as a finish coat over a 3/32" coat of Kal-Kote Basecoat for a total minimum thickness of 1/8". X-KALibur has a longer extended working time and may be worked to a variety of textured finishes. When applied in a thin coat 3/32" thick and troweled to a smooth finish, it provides a durable, abrasion-resistant surface for further decoration. Gold Bond® BRAND X-KALibur® Veneer Plaster is a single component veneer plaster for application over Gold Bond tapered edge 1/2" Regular or 5/8" Fire-Shield® Kal-Kore® Plaster Base, 5/8" Hi-Abuse® Kal-Kore or as a finish coat over Kal-Kote® Basecoat.
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